Leather is one of the most complicated materials to be working with, it is a natural material and therefore the handling of the material and ensuring a good quality, is an art-form in itself.

I have worked in the fashion industry for many years now and visited many factories for social and environmental audits. Among those – also leather factories. And the leather industry has other challenges than to ensure a good quality and make the material work in accordance to our fashion requirements. Consumers and customers are increasingly asking for more transparency in the leather supply chain and are becoming aware of the challenges involved in the supply chain.

Issues in the Leather industry

I will just shed light on some of the issues, that are involved in the supply chain. I have made a drawing of the supply chain up until the finishing of the material.Ironically most of the issues are happening furthest away from us and our direct influence. This does not mean that we do not have a responsibility, but it means that everything becomes a lot more difficult. Now, wasn´t that reassuring? 

If it is of any comfort to you, then we share the issues at the livestock and slaughter house level, with the food industry. Actually, I would claim that 99,9% percent of the leather that we use in our industry are a by-product of the food industry. So, I would say that there is a good scope for cross-industry collaboration, don´t you think?

The issues involved at the livestock level are:

Climate change/environment;

The animals release a lot of methane into our atmosphere, making a huge negative impact on the climate change. We are currently seeing an increase in people going Vegan, to combat this – not only by what they eat, but also what they wear.

Deforestation/biodiversity

To make room for cattle, forests are being cut down. 70% of the previous Amazon rainforest is now used for pastures, which naturally creates a shift in the biodiversity.

Animal Welfare

Truth is, we know very little about whether Animal Welfare is secured in our supply chains, because we have very little traceability throughout the supply chain.

Working as a CSR manager for fashion companies, I am often asked, by consumers, about the animal welfare of the cow that, supplied their purchased leather item. It is a big concern to consumers, and I would have a response ready, if I was you.

Unless you have become members of the Leather Working Group, there is not much you can say to reassure them, that the welfare of the animal has been secured. But you can always communicate your intentions and your good will. For example, that you have an animal welfare policy and that you are working to ensure more traceability and transparency in your supply chain, to truly implement it. (only if you have a policy and are trying to ensure traceability, of course).

Then it is up to the consumer, if they want to support that, or skip their leather products. If they ask your competitors, they will probably have the same answer as you.

Child labour

In some production countries children are used for cattle herding, and since it is quite far away from our world, it is difficult to control the conditions at this stage of the supply chain

And this also goes for forced labour and general working conditions. It is a major risk for us, as we cannot influence or control this area of our supply chain.

The issues involved at the slaughterhouse:

• Hazardous waste water for the surrounding environment can be discharged from the slaughter houses, if not treated properly.

• We use a lot of water at this phase of the leather production

• Again, we have issues around animal welfare. How the animals are transported to the slaughterhouse and the treatment of the animals prior to being killed. Of course, we can set up rules for this, but it is very difficult to control as this happens far out in our supply chain.

• Child labour, forced labour and poor working conditions

We know it is out there, and the risk of it being part of our supply chain is also present. So, you have to consider this as part of your risk assessments.

About the environmental and social issues in the leather textile industry

Preparation, Tanning and Finishing

The next three phases can basically happen at the same place, but are sometimes also divided into different suppliers, why I have set it up like this.

In the preparation stage, the hides go through processes such as:

• Soaking

• Liming

• Splitting

• Washing

  
  

The issues at this stage are: 

• Use of chemicals, and therefore the risk of the waste water to be very hazardous to the environment if not treated properly.
  Also due to the use of chemicals, we have issues around working conditions, if the safety of the workers, handling the chemicals are not managed properly.

• This stage of the supply chain is the most water intensive part.

• If waste – means flesh and hair from the animals at this stage, is not handled properly, but dumped somewhere, it releases again, a lot of methane, which is contributing negatively to climate change.

The processes for tanning are as follows:

• De-greasing, which is removing leftover grease from the hides – using solvents

• Then it is pickled to reduce the PH value to make the material ready for the next procedures

• Then the skin is sterilized, and the tanning process starts, using chromium salts.

• After that the skin is Sammed, which means that it is squeezed between rollers

• Then setting in, which means that it is being stretched.

Then we have what is called a “Wet Blue” – reason for it being called that, is due to the very specific colour it has after this process is done.

The issues we are facing during tanning are: 

• The use of Chromium salts, and controlling the chemical reactions of that, to prevent the hazardous Chromium VI to develop and being led into the local waters.

• Still the issue around water use. Producing leather have a negative effect on our water resources.

• Due to the handling of chemicals and in particular the use of Chromium Salts, it can have a very negative effect on the working conditions if not managed properly.

And contrary to the issues from slaughterhouse and livestock, this is actually a reachable level of our supply chain and with a bit of effort, you can actually work with your suppliers to ensure more awareness and actions to improve conditions.

At the last step is crusting and finishing, the processes here are:

• Neutralization, again to prepare the material for the next processes

• Re-tanning

• Dyeing

• Fat liquoring, which is a process to bring fat back into the material

• Drying

• Finishing

• Coating

  
  

The issues we have at this level are: 

• Waste water issues, due to the re-tanning process, that is sometimes required. It has the same issues as with normal tanning – the use of chromium salts and chemicals.
  Especially for re-tanning – due to the chromium used in this process.

• For spraying and drying there may be use of VOC´s (Volatile Organic Compounds), which are hazardous to human health and the environment.

Brand Collaboration?

Ok, so maybe this was not really a feel-good blog post, but there are things you can do out there to improve the industry and there are initiatives as well where brands are collaborating to solve these issues. You should check out The Leather Working Group, which is doing a tremendously good job to change the way that we source leather.