Is pre-owned the future of fashion?

Not as long as a decade ago second-hand shoppers would typically fall within two categories: value shoppers looking for the lowest price and vintage one-of-a-kind gem hunters.

Since then, the pre-owned market has changed a lot.

Expansion of resale

In the early 2010s many secondhand marketplaces emerged.

And a little bit later, brands have decided to join the party by launching their own online and offline resale stores. In 2021, the number of brands who offer pre-owned garments has increased almost four times compared to 2020!

The secondhand apparel market is expected to gain even more ground in the near future, expanding 3 times faster than the global apparel market.

Sustainability of pre-owned

Having a resale business leg has many advantages, such a move towards circularity, reduction of CO2 footprint or gaining new, price-conscious customers.

And – there can be no resale without good quality garments. Therefore, adding a pre-owned category to a webshop can be a message to customers about the quality and longevity of one’s garments.

However, it is important to remember that launching resale doesn’t make a fashion brand sustainable.

If the business model remains unchanged, bringing in the pre-owned category hardly has any impact on resource efficiency and carbon footprint.

Infact, it is important to count in the additional transportation and warehouse space needed and its effect on your company’s carbon footprint.

Recommerce extends the life of clothing, and that is definitely a plus in terms of sustainability.

However, choosing to do resale will only reduce the environmental impact of a brand if at the same it produces fewer new clothes. Luckily, this should be more than possible, considering that loyal customers may opt for a used, more budget friendly option next time.

Why a simple take back solution isn’t the solution

Takeback systems aren’t a new solution. They have been around for some time. Yet, it is estimated that 20 to 25 percent of clothes collected from consumers won’t be resold.

In the best-case scenario, they will be recycled. As the fashion industry still struggles to implement it at scale, it might not be possible.

Alternatively, they can be downcycled or exported to Africa or other developing countries. The latter however raises ethical concerns, as the influx of second-hand clothing has a negative effect on local garment production.

If neither downcycling or export is a possibility, the garments will be landfilled or incinerated.

Resale is definitely a growing trend for the fashion industry, expected to be as important in the future, as ecommerce is now. It has a great potential for sustainability, but also many challenges.

Challenges are often the place where we find not only one but multiple new solutions, so we approach this with an open and curious mind.