Is this the biggest question in fashion?

All over the fashion industry, brands are asking themselves the same question: 

What makes a sustainable product?

Because what matters most?

That a product can last many years of use and wear, or that it can be recycled and become part of a circular supply chain?

The obvious answer would of course be both.

A perfect product would last for years and years, and be fully recyclable in the end, when it couldn't be mended or repurposed anymore.

But is it even possible to create such a product? 

In most cases, the two properties actually work against each other.

Mono or mendable?

For recyclability and consequently circularity, mono-materials and synthetic materials are the way to go. If not, a product simply cannot be properly recycled.

But for longevity, pure mono-materials will often not be strong enough to stand the test of time. 

They will need to be chemically treated or have synthetics, such as elastane, added to make sure they can withstand wear and tear and still return to their intended shape.

On top of that, for a product to be easily recycled, they will need to be easy to pull apart, so they can be sorted and recycled properly.

Add to that the fact that when natural fibers are recycled (those that can), they often lose their strength and stability.

That means that while a t-shirt made of 100% recycled organic cotton sounds like a great and sustainable idea, it would quickly tear and break and possibly be disposed. 

Which is not exactly sustainable.

Often the best-case scenario is a product where all the materials have been recycled once. The product is then 100% recycled, but not recyclable.

And then we're not much better off than where we started.

What should you do?

Create a fully recyclable product that is made of mono-materials and easy to pull apart, but wont last that long?

Or develop a product that will outlast trends and multiple years of good use, but created in blended materials and which will probably end up in a landfill eventually?

In the end, it should depend on the product itself. 

Is it an outerwear piece that is supposed to last multiple seasons and be used a lot?

Then focus on longevity.

Is it a blouse or top that is very trend based?

Focus on making a product that is recyclable, since the consumer is likely to dispose it more quickly than an outerwear piece.

Do you want to know more about making better products?

Sign up to our e-learning platform, Sustainawear Community.

Caroline Krogholm Pedersen